A heritage guide to Penang, Malaysia’s Pearl of the Orient

Malaysia’s verdant Penang Island sits in the Malacca Strait just off the west coast of the peninsula. In centuries past, it was an important trading port, strategically positioned and busy with merchant ships. In the late 1700s, the island became the first British settlement in Malaysia and a Free Port under the stewardship of the East India Company. Then came waves of immigration from China, India and Sri Lanka, creating an exotic tapestry of cultures, religions and traditions. This steady layering of cultures has made Penang’s capital, George Town, what it is today – an atmospheric city with an old-world feel and one of the most exciting street food scenes in the world. Beyond the city, there’s more to discover, with stretches of tropical jungle and national park, quiet fishing villages, and serene temple complexes. Read on for insights into this fascinating island with our heritage guide to Penang.

Exploring George Town: local heritage and the arts

With its kaleidoscope of cultures and colorful street life, George Town is the kind of place you visit for a weekend and then end up staying in for weeks. Amidst the bustle of markets and street food hawkers, you’ll find plenty of travelers who have done just that. Penang is a firm favorite amongst backpackers bobbing between mainland Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia, all just a short hop away.

The UNESCO-protected old town is an engaging and walkable mélange of historic Chinese shophouses, trendy cafes and street art. These shophouses date back to the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries and come in a variety of designs, colors, and states of repair and restoration. They were mostly modest abodes for shopkeepers living above their stores, but there was great wealth amongst the Straits-Chinese. For a glimpse of 19th-century opulence, visit the indigo-painted Blue Mansion, or the exquisite Peranakan Mansion with its grand courtyard and European-influenced design flourishes.

Other notable heritage buildings in central George Town are the impressive clan halls where Chinese immigrants with the same family name once gathered. During the 19th century, many newly-arrived Chinese in Penang lived on small boats moored off ramshackle wooden jetties. Later, they built their houses on stilts over the water. Today, just a few of these so-called clan jetties remain, offering a glimpse of centuries past. As fortunes improved, these clans were able to build great halls, or kongsi, as meeting places. The Cheah Kongsi, with its ornately-tiled pagoda roof and gilded carved beams, is a prime example.

There is also plenty of contemporary culture to explore in Penang, with independent galleries, boutiques and design shops. Interestingly, George Town has become a prominent center for street art in Asia. In 2012, the city commissioned the international street artist Ernest Zacharevic to bring his work to the thoroughfares of central George Town. Since then, the art form has really taken off, with local and international artists turning the center into an open-air art gallery.

For an exciting mix of contemporary art, crafts, live music and street food, head to the Hin Bus Depot, a cavernous abandoned building transformed into a cultural center. It is always lively, but particularly so at weekends when makers markets and festivals take over the space.

Festivals are another wonderful expression of Penang’s many-layered cultural heritage. There are Hindu and Islamic religious festivities, Chinese Dragonboat festivals, and in July, the George Town Festival honors all of the island’s ethnic groups with a three-day celebration of food and arts.

Eating and drinking in Penang

With the fragrances of Thailand, classic Malay dishes, subtly-spiced Indian and Sri Lankan curries, and flavor-packed Chinese street food, Penang’s food offering might just be the best in Asia. George Town is truly a place to feast, and you’ll almost certainly sample a few dishes unlike anything you’ve tasted before.

Of course, there are restaurants and cafes, but the street vendors and hawker centers offer the most bang for your buck in terms of flavor and price. These are family-owned stalls that have often been handed down through the generations and specialize in just one or two dishes perfected over many years. Watching them practice their craft is all part of the experience.

The Nyonya cooking style blends Chinese and Malay flavors and techniques to create some diverse and addictive dishes for snacking. These include otak-otak, a curried fish and egg omelet steamed in a banana leaf, and popiah, fresh spring rolls braised in crab broth.

The classic Penang dish is asam laksa, made with thick rice noodles plunged into a punchy and fragrant fishy, herby broth. To make the most of Penang feasting, simply follow your nose and the locals, and you won’t go far wrong. To get things started, head to the Jetty Hawker Stalls, to New Lane on any evening, and Macallum Street on Monday nights.

At some point, most visitors find their way to the cool climes of China House, a line of linked Chinese shophouses now transformed into an artsy (air-conditioned) venue with workshop spaces, a hip cocktail bar, and a café that specializes in creating cakes in an overwhelming array of flavors (beware the indecisive).

Penang Island: gardens, green spaces and temples

When you are in need of some tranquility, there are several city-based escapes to get started on. Established in 1884, the Penang Botanical Gardens quickly envelop you in landscaped green. Here, you have a glimpse of the tropical wildlife of Penang, with lizards, butterflies and monkeys peering from the canopy. A steep hike leads from the gardens through the surrounding jungle-clad hills to the top of Penang Hill, for panoramic views of the city and its surrounds (the funicular is a less taxing way to ascend).

North along the coast, at the Tropical Spice Garden, visitors immerse themselves in nature, stroll the shady trails, and take cooking classes featuring fresh, full-flavor spices. On the northwestern tip, the Penang National Park occupies 23 sq km of tropical forest fringed by soft sand beaches. Visitors can hike along several well-marked trails surrounded by the sights and sounds of the forest. Head to Monkey Beach and Turtle Beach to observe their namesake animals in the wild. Alternatively, take a boat trip through the mangroves and stop to swim at one of the park’s pristine beaches.

For a full-on temple experience, visit Air Itam on the outskirts of George Town. Here, the dazzling Kek Lok Si Buddhist temple complex cascades down the hillside in multicolored glory. It features towering statues, gilded pagodas, and splendid pavilions overlooking preened gardens. This is Southeast Asia’s largest Buddhist temple complex, drawing pilgrims from all over the region.

Village life can be hard to find on busy Penang Island, but it is there. Slow your pace right down and head south to the fishing villages of Teluk Kumbar, Gertak Sanggul or Teluk Tempoyak. There, swaying coconut palms fringe the beaches, and local stalls and cafes serve some of the freshest seafood available.

Make it happen

If Penang’s vibrant heritage has you intrigued, chat with a local expert today and start planning your Malaysia adventure.