Exploring Colombia: inside the walls of Cartagena

One step into the magical colonial town of Cartagena in Colombia, and you’ll feel as if you have plunged into the pages of a García Márquez novel. Wooden balconies covered in drooping flowers adorn the city’s wonderfully-preserved architecture. Wandering the town’s streets is an overwhelming sensory experience, and a true feast for the eyes: street sellers balance bowls of fruits on their heads, food stalls sell ripe avocados, fresh mango slices and fried local delights, and open-air cafés and restaurants dish up delicious fare in the heart of the action; all the while, dance troupes break out into spontaneous performances and live music can be enjoyed at every corner. It is unsurprising that this enchanting place is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, as it brims so vividly with culture and history. Here, we offer some insider knowledge to help you find out what to do in Cartagena, as you plan your next South American adventure.

A brief history of Cartagena

Cartagena is a city steeped in colonial history. The old walled town was founded in 1533 by Spanish Commander Don Pedro de Heredia, as a way of protecting the Ciudad Amurallada against potential invaders and attackers who were after its treasures. Prior to the Spanish conquest, indigenous groups settled here, and they left behind valuable riches – for example, the ancient leaders were buried with gold in their tombs. When word spread that this town was flourishing, it suffered a series of invasions by the British and the French.

Cartagena got its name from the first Spanish settlers that arrived in the city, who came from the Spanish Cartagena. The British unsuccessfully tried to invade Cartagena in the War of Jenkin’s Ear (1739-1748) – so-named due to the severing of British captain Robert Jenkin’s ear – and although they gained control of the walled city, a series of problems arose. Improved defense systems and the spread of various infectious diseases inevitably forced them to retreat.

Had the British been successful in their conquest, English could have been the official language of Colombia. Following a 10-year period of gruesome battle, Cartagena de Indias finally gained its independence from the Spanish empire in 1811, whose influences are still very much present in the Cartagena we see today. Much of the city’s architectural charm is the result of the Spanish conquest, when beautiful monasteries and churches were built around the city to spread Catholicism.

Music in Cartagena

If you are seeking live music and dancing, then look no further: Cartagena is known for its music scene, kaleidoscopic styles, and intoxicating atmosphere, all of which combine to make you want to dance. Genres to expect include champeta (Afro-Colombian pop/folk music), cumbia, and salsa.

For traditional live champeta music, head to the Bazurto Social Club, situated just off the main street of Medialuna. Located just outside of the walled city in the Getsemaní district lies Café Havana, known for its fantastic, vibrant salsa nights. Grab a drink and watch some incredible salsa dancers, or join in yourself to let off some steam after a day of sightseeing. Equally close, but also situated outside of the walled city in Getsemaní, lies the Quiebra-Canto salsa bar – a haunt for locals and tourists alike, loved for its Caribbean feel and cheerful salsa dancing. These vibrant venues contribute to Cartagena’s unbeatable nightlife.

The best food and drink in Cartagena

Colombian cuisine combines a fusion of flavors, encompassing influences from Spanish, indigenous and African foods. Inside the walls of Cartagena, there are many charming restaurants to dine in. The town squares are littered with bustling eateries, and tables spill into the streets.

The hum of chatter, background of salsa music, and soporific humidity of the air make for a wonderful atmosphere. Foodies will be spoilt for choice whilst wandering its colorful passageways and sampling some of the sumptuous street food. Make sure to try patacones con queso costeño, a traditional savory snack that combines crunchy, soft-fried plantains (patacones) with a salty, gooey cheese. Arepas are also a must if you are in Cartagena: this maize-based, doughy food is popularly filled with cheese – arepas con queso – or minced meat – arepa de choclo con queso. If you’re in the mood for a traditional, hearty meal in a local restaurant, try a mojarra, which consists of coconut rice, fried patacones and salad.

Colombia is also renowned for its fantastic selection of fruits, and street sellers in the old walled town make fresh juices and sell sliced mango in small bags, in both ripe and unripe form. Although it may sound bizarre, unripe crunchy mango with salt is a popular snack, and extremely refreshing in the strong heat of the Colombian sun.

For delicious ceviche, head to La Cevichería, a small but charming restaurant known to have the best ceviche in town. This restaurant is unpretentious and down to earth, with wonderful food to try. For more of a fine dining experience, head to Carmen to feast on delicate fish, tasty risotto, ceviche and good wine – its contemporary menu is creative and innovative. The restaurant’s elegant interior, tropical courtyard, and friendly service make for a memorable experience.

To walk off all that food, take an early evening stroll along the city walls – a great way to also admire the sea, the breathtaking views, and the old-meets-new architecture of Cartagena – the old city starkly contrasts with the newly built high-rise buildings of the Bocagrande neighborhood, which tower over the city. To kick back for the evening, you could then buy a couple of beers and head to one of the cubby holes in the walls as the skies turn orange and pink.

Culture in Cartagena

The old walled city of Cartagena is also a cultural hub, with an accolade of things to do and see. There are stunning historic churches to visit, and a collection of interesting museums to discover. Located on the Plaza de San Pedro Claver, the Modern Art Museum of Cartagena is set in a former 17th-century customs house and is made up of two buildings: one constructed in the second half of the 17th century, and the second in the latter half of the 19th century. The museum’s brick walls, high ceilings and mood lighting make for a striking setting for its exhibitions. Two of the painters that predominantly feature here are Colombian artists Alejandro Obregón and Enrique Grau; some of Obregón’s most renowned artworks seek to tell the story of Colombia’s tragic past using bright colors and jarring imagery.

Elsewhere, the NH Galeria showcases Colombia’s local talent, predominantly featuring contemporary artworks. Another museum worth visiting to learn about Colombian history is the Zenú Gold Museum, which holds a wonderful collection of gold and pottery belonging to the Zenú people, an Amerindian tribe in Colombia.

Chocolate-lovers should head to the Museo del Cacao to learn about one of Colombia’s most important exports. Entry is free, and you will be able try various samples as well as buy tasty souvenirs to take home. Then, visit the Convent and Church of San Pedro Claver to learn all about the life of Spanish priest and missionary Pedro Claver, widely celebrated for his charitable actions. He was known as the Apostle of the Blacks, as he looked after the enslaved when they arrived in the Americas. The Museum houses paintings, beautiful Haitian art, drawings and belongings that tell the story of the extraordinary life of Claver.

Another worthy excursion is a trip to Santo Domingo, said to be the oldest church in the city. It was originally constructed in 1539 in the Plaza de los Coches, but following a fire, the church had to be rebuilt in 1522 in the Plaza de Santo Domingo, where it currently stands.

Make it happen

These tips and cultural insights only skim the surface for things to do in Cartagena, the perfect destination for foodies, history enthusiasts, and lovers of salsa. If reading about this fabulous city has inspired you, be sure to get in touch with our friendly local experts: they will be more than happy to organize your dream trip to Colombia, and offer plenty more suggestions for what to do in Cartagena.