Discover Tunisia’s villages off the beaten track

Among the African nations that border the Mediterranean Sea, Egypt usually commands the most attention from world travelers. But Tunisia, while much smaller, is just as fascinating in its own way. It attracts international visitors with both modern delights (those beaches are justly famous) and cultural sites offering windows into civilizations long since past. In this guide to where to go in Tunisia, we call attention to some of the lesser-known highlights, particularly its villages. You’ll want to get your desert attire and gear in order before you even finish the article!

Introducing hidden Tunisia

When deciding where to go in Tunisia, most visitors focus their attention squarely on the following attractions: beaches (especially along the eastern coast) and the resort towns accompanying them, historical sites like the ruins of Carthage, and bustling cities such as Tunis, Hammamet, Sousse, and Monastir. And in fairness, all of those are well worth visiting!

But if you have an aversion to overtourism, or you’ve visited those locales before, there’s so much more of the Tunisia landscape for you to explore. The villages we’ll discuss here and the areas where they’re located are often quite a few miles (literally and figuratively) from the beaches, fine dining, and nightlife. To varying degrees, all of them offer a window into the ancient, unique culture of Tunisia’s Indigenous population, the Amazigh (or Berber), and also showcase the country’s geographical diversity.

Traveling off the beaten path

The terrain surrounding these seven villages and sites varies dramatically from the singularly austere Tunisia desert to fertile vegetation. But the primary difference is between mountainous areas in the north and semi-arid plains in the south. In both cases, you should expect to do some hiking (even on a guided tour with a vehicle to handle the toughest ground). Depending on where you choose to go in Tunisia, you’ll want to pack clothes and footwear that are up to the task, and prepare yourself for (moderate) physical rigor.

Respecting cultural diversity

The Djerba and Matmata Amazigh groups in Tunisia make up just 1% of the country’s overall population. But in the inhabited places detailed below, they’re the cultural if not literal majority. Their quiet, agriculture-driven lifestyle is the norm — not the hustle and bustle of modernity most of us (including Tunisia’s Arab majority) are used to. Be polite and respectful in your interactions, and leave no wasteful evidence of your visit.

Takrouna: the village on the rocky hill

Standing atop a hill about 656ft (200m) above sea level in Central East Tunisia (the Sahel region), this Amazigh/Berber village showcases both ancient and contemporary Indigenous culture. The ksars (fortified earthen structures with distinctive tube-shaped roofs) have remained mostly intact for centuries. Other architectural highlights include a 13th-century mosque and a shrine to 12th-century Sufi leader Abdul Qadir Gilani, both found just below the village’s topmost level.

Just a few modern Amazigh families live in Takrouna (in the olive-grove-surrounded foothills below the ancient structures, not in them). They’re well-known for their warmth and hospitality, and often serve tea and tabouna (a semolina-based bread) to visitors. Consider paying back their kindness by patronizing the souvenir shops for authentic Amazigh crafts, especially pottery.

Chenini: carved out of rock (and tradition)

Partially ruined but sparsely inhabited, Chenini (and the nearby city of Tataouine) have been filming locations for several of the Star Wars movies. The primary ruin is on a hilltop, and the structures are considered some of the most impressive ksars in the Amazigh world. Chenini is home to the Mosque of the Seven Sleepers, but also represents a sacred site of Islam in itself.

Most of the current residents live in dwellings that have been carved into the hillside (more than 1,000 years ago in some cases) and offer protection from the heat. Because Chenini is part of the mountains bordering the Sahara Desert, it offers a stunning view of the plains extending south — just be prepared for the accompanying climate.

Guermessa: the forgotten sentry

Like Chenini, Guermessa is located not far from Tataouine, but it’s entirely uninhabited. Sources differ on when it was first built — some say as early as the 7th century, others as recently as the 15th. But it’s generally believed to have been a refuge from incursions by various Arab armies, and it has definitely been uninhabited since the 1970s. Guermessa is further into the desert, and thus draws less tourism than other ksour in the greater Tataouine area. (The austerity of its location was likely the reason for its abandonment.)

If you choose to visit, you’ll be blown away by the intricacy of Guermessa’s structure. Ksars, grain storage structures known as ghorfas, and cave dwellings (sometimes called “troglodyte homes”) are all either carved directly into the hillside or built so that the buildings appear almost like they emerged naturally from the mountain itself. Guermessa is a sight to behold, but keep in mind that it’s not fully restored and the paths up the hillside can be steep.

Matmata: from cave dwellings to film shoots

Guermessa visually inspired George Lucas and various collaborators when making the first Star Wars, but Matmata (like Chenini) features prominently in it. (The Hotel Sidi Driss — which is open for lodging — doubled as Luke Skywalker’s childhood home.) That said, the Sidi Driss is only patterned after Matmata’s ancient dwellings; it’s not an authentic ruin. Amazigh homes in this area are typically built by digging large holes, leaving the resulting “pit” to serve as a courtyard, and burrowing into the pit’s walls to create caves for habitation.

The larger Tunisian population didn’t know Matmata existed until the late 1960s, when a sudden flood destroyed numerous underground Amazigh homes. After the local government restored these residences, most Amazigh moved back into them, even though the restoration included the construction of new aboveground buildings. Today, you can visit some of these dwellings. Amazigh who make their living by tourism readily show travelers their remarkable underground architecture, demonstrate and sell traditional crafts (the tapestries are especially impressive), and serve Berber cuisine (tajine stew, couscous, pastilla meat pies, and more).

Zriba Olia: the phantom village

Also known as Zriba El Alia, this (mostly) abandoned village near the northern Tunisia city of Zaghouan dates back to the 17th century — making it fairly new by Amazigh standards. Carved out of the forested mountains (just between two peaks), Zriba Olia stands as a reminder of Amazigh architectural ingenuity, with ksars and other structures centered around a monument to the aforementioned Abdul Qadir Gilani.

As with Takroun, a handful of Amazigh families live in the village, and they’re quite welcoming to respectful travelers. If you’ve developed a taste for classic Amazigh cuisine, there’s a small cafe amid the ancient structures.

Tamezret: a living museum

In southeastern Tunisia, not far from Matmata, Tamezret offers a multifaceted perspective of Amazigh culture. Located about 1,575ft (480m) above sea level, it’s a genuine Amazigh village carved into and atop the nearby mountains, inhabited by a tight-knit resident community.

Visitors can also experience Amazigh culture through the context of the Musée Berbère de Tamezret. It’s one of the more remarkable collections of Amazigh art, pottery, tapestry, and artifacts in all of Tunisia. Additionally, the village features a few more modern amenities than many of those we’ve highlighted, including a cultural center and two competing bed-and-breakfasts.

Cape Bon: historical and natural highlights

Cape Bon is the first area on this list that isn’t specifically an Amazigh/Berber region. Nevertheless, it offers an intriguing window into the nation’s complex past and present, and hence is a honorable mention on our list of where to go in Tunisia.

Just off the Mediterranean coast, you’ll find the Fort de Kélibia (outside the city of the same name). Much of this fortress was built by the Byzantines in the 6th century CE. But some of it is Carthaginian and dates back to the 3rd century BCE, when Rome and Carthage waged the First Punic War. Still other elements give evidence of Tunisia’s time as an Ottoman Turkish colony. Further inland, you’ll find the ruins of Kerkouane, which feature extremely rare remnants of Punic-era Phoenician architecture.

What’s‌ equally remarkable about Cape Bon is its flora. Verdant citrus groves, vineyards, pine forests, rare flowers, and more make it a must-see for any Tunisia traveler — especially anyone who thinks of the country as all desert and mountain.

Make it happen

You can always rely on our local experts to steer your vacation and help you figure out where to go in Tunisia, in the most exciting and fulfilling direction. They can easily tweak it from the predetermined itinerary and help you make it your own. Get in touch with our experts whenever you’re ready to plan your getaway.