A beginner’s guide to Sardinia

White-sand beaches lapped by clear waters, the upscale towns of the Costa Smeralda, an indulgent gastronomic scene of pecorino cheese, sea urchin spaghetti and elegant wines… no matter how much or how little you know of Sardinia (or Sardegna to locals), it’s clear it has already long established itself as one of the most sought-after destinations in Italy and Mediterranean Europe. There’s much more to this mysterious island than meets the eye, though, and a first visit is often delightful and filled with surprise. In this Sardinia travel guide, we run through the regional sights, flavours, and experiences you won’t want to miss on a first visit, one that is sure to be marked by historical wonder and that will soon fuel the desire for a quick return.

Sardinia travel guide: heritage, history and culture

Described as luxurious, fragrant, windswept and wild, Sardinia is the island of dreams that you can take pleasure in visiting all throughout the seasons. Yet, few sun-seeking tourists will know that the island, second-largest in the Mediterranean after Sicily at 24,090 sq km, captivates for reasons far beyond its stunning coastline and high-end pleasures. An ancient landmass, oldest of all of Italy and Europe, it dates back more than 500 million years to the Cambrian period; its earliest human residents are believed to have reached its shores up to 18,000 years ago, pre-dating the Neolithic period. To this day, it is home to a fiercely proud, close-knit ethnic group, with its own genetic makeup separate from the people of the Italian mainland, and whose long-lasting customs and traditions have stood the test of time.

Sardinia holds a strong heritage that blossomed during the time of the Nuragic civilisation, from the Middle Bronze Age up to when the island was captured by the Romans; for being so rich in minerals and precious metals, it even attracted the attention of the Phoenicians, Cartheginians, and Greeks. Perhaps the most famous present-day examples of Nuragic culture are the nuraghe, conical stone landmarks of which more than 7,000 dot the island. Sardinia’s other archaeological sites are wide-ranging and plentiful, from preserved parks and amphitheatres to rock-hewn tombs, each showcasing distinct periods of history and shrouding the island with age-old mystery.

How to spend a day in Cagliari

Sardinia is divided into four provinces and the metropolitan city of Cagliari, its coastal capital. The latter is a firm favourite for the wealth of experiences and activities it offers, and you could easily spend an entire trip here, retracing its history alongside soaking up its more modern-day draws. Step back in time at the Roman amphitheatre and medieval hilltop castle, lose yourself amidst the vibrant architecture of its old town and three other districts steeped in history, and perch atop the Saint Remy Bastion for wide-reaching views out to the port. For a change of scene, you could spend time birdwatching on the vast grounds of the Molentargius-Saline Regional Park; explore the Gulf of Angels on a boat tour complete with snorkelling and swimming stops; or stroll the Garden of the Capuchins – a small, sloping space used for growing medicinal herbs in the 17th century.

Best things to see and do on the Costa Smeralda

Perhaps Sardinia’s most popular attraction, the Costa Smeralda is a jet-setter’s paradise that spans about 20 km along the island’s northeast coast. Its landscape is defined by fine-sand beaches in shades of white and pink, tucked-away coves, and clear turquoise waters brimming with aquatic life including dolphins and sea turtles. Its resort towns and villages such as Porto Cervo and San Pantaleo pile on the charm with their picture-perfect squares, lively cafes and nightlife, luxury properties, and atmospheres of all-out indulgence.

The Costa Smeralda hits its peak between June and August, and to many, visiting during these prime months is the entire point – a chance to mingle with society’s crème de la crème and willingly loosen purse strings. Still, don’t ignore the perks of travelling during shoulder season, which sees prices drop and crowds scatter – making for an undoubtedly enjoyable experience, a chance to slow down and properly soak up one of Italy’s most picturesque coastlines.

The best places to go in Sardinia: regional gems

In the north, Sassari and its eponymous capital city are fascinating cultural hubs, home to a vast collection of Nuragic buildings and a wealth of museums to help you uncover the island’s artistic, archaeological, and ethnographic histories; this province is also home to Castelsardo and its impressive fortifications, the architectural marvels of Alghero, and the aforementioned Costa Smeralda, which shimmers and shines as its most exclusive stretch. Meanwhile, the southern province of Sud Sardegna is criminally underrated (or delightfully, depending on how you look at it), spilling with breathtaking landscapes along its Costa Verde and beyond. Laze on the divine Punta Molentis beach near Villasimius, observe wild horses free-roaming the Giara de Gesturi park – a magical and special experience for all ages, and savour slow-paced San Pietro island, known for its water sports and the colourful fishing town of Carloforte.

To the east, the province of Nuoro is a land of mountains, valleys and unbridled natural beauty. Combine history and tradition there as you tour quaint villages (Orgosolo for its murals, Dorgali for its ceramic crafts and tranquil beaches), then take to rocky hiking trails to reach new heights and cast your eyes upon endless open panoramas. In western Sardinia, the province of Oristano (locally known as Aristanis) offers a wholly unique experience with its swathes of unspoilt beaches and the untouched ecosystem of the Sinis Peninsula. There, the landscapes morph from marshes, lagoons and a protected marine reserve, to vineyards and villages brimming with history; keen wildlife-watchers might expect to spot loggerhead sea turtles, pink flamingos, and a colourful variety of birdlife as the seasons change.

From food to crafts: traditions to explore in Sardinia

While you’ll inevitably fill your Sardinian itinerary with a fair dose of history, no trip to the island would be complete without immersing yourself in all that its well-spun cultural fabric has to offer – whatever form this may take.

Those who like experiencing a region through their taste buds should of course sample its unique wines – sessions are best booked from April to June, so you can avoid peak summertime crowds and admire the vines in bloom. You could pair this with a tapas tasting, sampling locally-produced olive oil, cured meats, cheeses and more. If you’d prefer a more hands-on experience, take a sensory journey through a cooking class, learning to make pasta and other local delicacies in an intimate farmhouse setting. For foodies, the island’s offerings are seemingly endless, and range from culurgiones (ravioli-like pasta stuffed with potato, pecorino cheese and mint), to pane carasau flatbreads, to spit-roasted meats such as porcetto arrosto (suckling pig), to fregula pasta topped with fresh seafood and saffron.

Sardinia also lays claim to a fascinating art and handicrafts heritage, from elegant ceramics dating back to the Nuragic period, to fine jewellery made of gold and intricately perfected with bright coral and stones. Take time to explore an artisan cork workshop, to learn about how the locals have made use of this natural resource over the years, or join a basket-weaving course to craft a very special souvenir to take home with you.

Sardinia travel guide: when to visit and how to get around

As with many Mediterranean destinations, Sardinia is best visited in spring and autumn to dodge the crowds and price hikes that come during the summer months – though even during peak season, Sardinia doesn’t need to be as expensive as you might think, if you plan ahead and dodge overcrowded hotspots. The climate cools to a pleasant 15-20 degrees Celsius on average, making for more enjoyable outdoor pursuits and beach relaxation. While the sunshine comes in smaller doses and rainy spells are more regular, Sardinia in the winter is also mild as warm air blows across from North Africa, making it a wonderful destination for winter sun escapes.

If you’re considering a trip, you may begin to wonder: Do you need a car in Sardinia? What are your best options for getting around? Trains and a more extensive bus network are available on the island, great for planning slow travel experiences and a more sustainable trip, though you’ll of course need to factor in longer journey times, the likelihood of irregular services, and check timetables ahead of travelling. With this in mind, you don’t necessarily need a car to get around – though if you’re pressed for time and want easy access to all the beaches and more remote reaches, a self-drive trip might be best. Those who hit the road can get around the country in three to five days, on average (depending, of course, on any extra experiences and activities you may want to factor in along the way).

Sardinia is served by three airports, two of which are located in the northern part of the island (Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport and Alghero Airport), and one in the southern part (Cagliari-Elmas Airport). If you’re including Sardinia as part of a broader Italian itinerary, regular flights operate between its airports and major cities back on the mainland, including Rome, Bologna, Naples, and Milan. You could otherwise opt for ferry transfers, with 13 routes operating between the island and mainland; travel times vary but can take as little as five hours and 30 minutes.

Make it happen

If this Sardinia travel guide has you yearning to feel the island’s magic for yourself, reach out to our local experts for Italy – they’ll help you plan a tailor-made itinerary today.