Exploring Borneo off the beaten track

A glimmering haven on tropical seas, Borneo is the largest island in Asia; sharing its jungle-clad landmass between Malaysia, Indonesia and Brunei. Home to thick jungle basins, ravishing marine life, the world’s largest flower and of course, the elusive orangutan; Borneo leaves thousands of its visitors starry-eyed. Mournfully, a country so bursting with resources is vulnerable to exploitation. Too many of Borneo’s natural wonders have been plundered in the name of palm oil and logging; its forests and wild inhabitants, shrinking by the day. However, pockets of this beautiful country still remain, and the most adventurous of travelers – who are up for delving deep, despite a questionable infrastructure – can still experience the real and rugged Borneo. To help you plan an adventure you’ll never forget, we take a look at Borneo off the beaten track.

Malaysian Borneo – Sabah and Sarawak

Malaysia’s section of Borneo comprises the northwestern third of the island, and is made up of two states; Sabah and Sarawak. Sabah is most popular with tourists, and justifiably, with the 4,095m Mount Kinabalu, exceptional wildlife-watching opportunities and out-of-this-world diving. Sarawak shouldn’t be missed either, especially the dynamic city of Kuching where you’ll eat like a king, taking your pick from an exciting mix of flavors and cuisines.

Sandakan’s rainforest and orangutan rehabilitation centers

The first of its kind in the world, the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center covers an area of rainforest of just over 40 sq km. It welcomes orphaned and injured orangutans with the aim of reintroducing them to the wild. Travelers can visit the orphan enclosure to see the babies at play, and also follow trails through the forest to observe the resident orangutans in their natural habitat. The nearby Rainforest Discovery Center offers more chances to experience Sabah’s wildlife with its treetop canopy walkways and nature trails.

Sipadan Island

The pristine waters around remote Sipadan Island are rated as one of the best dive sites in the world. Around this extinct volcanic cone, corals and sea life flourish and it’s particularly well-known for its abundance of hammerhead sharks and sea turtles (hawksbill and green).

Mount Kinabalu

At 4,095m, mighty Mount Kinabalu is the highest peak in Borneo and all of Malaysia. Rising out of the jungle canopy, its distant peak is dramatic and awe-inspiring. Hiking it requires a tough two-day challenge with an overnight stay in a bunkhouse. You’ll need a permit and be very glad of the compulsory guide accompanying you. It’s a challenging but rewarding hike winding along misty jungle paths, out into alpine meadows and on to the rocky granite peak for superlative sunrise views.

Kinabatangan River

This is the longest river in Sabah, beginning in the southwest and flowing into the Sulu Sea. It offers exceptional wildlife-watching on boat trips through forested floodplains and mangroves. Here you’ll see bulbous-nosed proboscis monkeys swinging through the trees, as well as orangutans, loris and gibbons. Beneath the water swim Irrawaddy dolphins, freshwater sharks and crocs, while myriad colorful birdlife flit between the trees and elephants cool off in the shallows.

Danum Valley Conservation Area

Those seeking a lesser-trodden path in Sabah should head to the Danum Valley Conservation Area in the south of the region. A favorite among scientists, this 438 sq km stretch of lowland forest is almost unique, in that there was no human interference here before it became a conservation area.

The dense, mist-covered canopy evokes a sense of impenetrable wilderness and is home to gibbons, tapirs, orangutans, flying squirrels, clouded leopards, the East Sumatran rhino, and 270 types of birds. Of course, there are no guarantees just what you will spot as you embark on a memorable trek through its undisturbed depths (except, perhaps, leeches). However, a new plant species is found every week by scientists, such is the complexity of its ecosystem – so keep your eyes to the skies and something is sure to fly, scuttle or clamber into view.

Kuching

Snuggled alongside Sabah, Malaysia’s largest state, Sarawak has quirkier highlights on offer than its neighbor. Its capital Kuching (derived from the Malay word for ‘cat’) is scattered with feline statues, cultural museums and a great foodie offering. The city is also a launch point for many day trips to the surrounding rain forests, and to Belaga, where many tourists head to stay in longhouses traditionally lived in by the Iban, Bidayuh and Orang Ulu.

Gunung Mulu National Park

For an alternative nature experience, UNESCO-protected Gunung Mulu National Park makes for a stunning geological theater; made up of more breathtaking, bat-filled caves, razor-sharp rock formations and karst cliff faces than you could ever explore on one trip. All of this, while surrounded by ancient rainforest and overlooked by its two hazy mountains, Mulu and Gapi.

Kelabit Highlands

Near Mulu Park, you’ll find another off-the-beaten-track adventure in the form of the Kelabit Highlands. Hiking the trails of this highland plateau offers gorgeous panoramic views, unusually fresh air, and great hospitality from the Kelabits; many of whom are more than happy to offer up their longhouses for homestays as you progress on your trek. Be aware: logging has affected much of this area, as everywhere in Borneo – so best to update yourself on the situation before you go.

Indonesian Borneo – Kalimantan

When it comes to lesser-visited terrain, it’s hard to find a region more cloaked from outsiders than Indonesia’s Kalimantan. Though the oil and logging industries have still made their mark here, the infrastructure for tourists is either in its burgeoning stages, or non-existent – to the point where people often get around via rivers rather than roads. Tackling much of these secluded jungles is only for travelers with lots of time, patience, and knowledge of Bahasa.

For the majority of tourists, however, a jaunt to Kalimantan means spotting orangutans in Tanjung Puting National Park. Visitors typically spend three to four days on board a traditional klotok, drifting down jungle-fringed rivers and stopping on the way to watch orangutans, proboscis monkeys, gibbons and birds who climb, feed and nest in the forest canopies. After a night on deck under a starry sky, waking up to the sight of swinging primates overhead is one wildlife adventure you won’t forget.

When to visit Borneo

Tropical Borneo is hot and humid year-round, with temperatures hovering around 30 degrees Celsius or 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Downpours are frequent and drenching – but all the rain keeps the forests fabulously green. The best time to visit is when the island is driest, from around April to September. Earlier in the year, the jungles will be at their lushest, and it is prime time for spotting orangutans and other tree-bound wildlife. There’s also good visibility for diving, and the hiking is excellent.

By June, the days become hotter and drier, perhaps curbing more strenuous activity a little. This is a great time to visit for wildlife, diving and hiking, and is also the start of the turtle-watching season, with hatchlings appearing on the beaches by August. These warm and drier conditions continue throughout July, August and into September. By October, the rain showers start to pick up in frequency and strength, and the crowds begin to disperse. So begins the shoulder season with mixed weather and fewer visitors.

The monsoon brings heavy rains in December and January, making it unsuitable for trekking, diving and wildlife-watching. Later in February and March are also shoulder season months, with good deals available, quiet beaches, and some wildlife-watching opportunities.

Make it happen

For a custom-made trip to Borneo’s best and lesser-visited gems, enquire with our Malaysian and Indonesian local experts – they’ll be happy to help you plan a trip to Borneo off the beaten track.