Conquering Machu Picchu’s Salkantay Trek

When it comes to experiencing adventure travel, the easiest way isn’t always the best way. Great experiences can be had on five-day treks over almost 100 km (62 mi) and up to a thrilling elevation of 4,620 m (15,158 ft) above sea level – even if these do come complete with ice-cold feet, sunburn, sandfly bites, damaged shoes, and no shower access for several days. If you’re wondering how, read our guide on how to conquer Machu Picchu’s famous Salkantay Trek in Peru.

Day 1: 23 km (14 mi) – in-between sweating and freezing

At 4.30am our group was picked up in Cuzco, to drive the 90 km (56 mi) route to Mollepata, the starting point of the Salkantay Trek. After breakfast, a group of people from all over the world joined our Quechua guide as we began our trek along a dusty road under a burning sun. On a green lawn, two cooks prepared a simple but delicious meal of local specialties for us – you have to try the chicha morada, a popular sweet Peruvian beverage made from purple corn.

In the evening we reached our camp in Soraypampa, 3,900 m (12,795 ft) high and right in the middle of the Andes mountains. As there was no electricity, candles were the only option to illuminate our dinner. The following night was definitely the hardest of all my time in Peru! Even my sleeping bag and all 17 pieces of clothing I had with me couldn’t keep the chill out of the tent. Our group didn’t sleep a wink, instead lying awake, longing for the hot cocoa and tea in the morning.

Day 2: 22 km (13 mi) – torrential rain and breathing at high altitudes

It was 5am; time to get up and scale Salkantay mountain. At 4,620 m (15,158 ft), the top of this trail would be the highest point of our route. The path was getting steeper and steeper and the sun hotter and hotter, but the view into the valley was only getting better and better. Unfortunately, the higher we climbed the harder it was to catch our breath. Despite the fact that we were all running solely on coca leaves and determination, by lunch our group was standing triumphantly on the top of the trail, facing the snowy Salkantay.

This face of the mountain has never been climbed because of its sheer rock walls – a point which was immediately made clear by an avalanche occurring right before our eyes. The way down to our next basecamp took us through a valley that appeared to be straight out of the romantic Scottish Highlands – right down to the rain, which followed us all afternoon. Dead tired, we dried our clothes over the evening campfire. Because of the weather, we didn’t fully realize at the time how beautiful our surroundings were.

Day 3: 12 km (7 mi) – jungle depths and relaxing hot springs

On day three of the Salkantay Trek, the sunrise over the lush green hills, with chickens and horses wandering around our tents, proved that the previous day’s effort was worthwhile. Walking through a hill-lined valley, beside a river bordered by passion fruit trees and singing birds, we felt as if we’d arrived in a different world. At noon we reached our campsite among banana plants, where we replenished our bodies in the natural hot springs. The day ended with a party under the starry sky on a cool evening.

Day 4: 22 km (13 mi) – a walk along railway tracks

The morning’s calm vanished as soon as we started our three-hour trek down a dusty road with no hint of shade. After a lunch break, we reached the railway tracks which snaked through the rainforest to Aguas Calientes, the starting point for the final climb to Machu Picchu.

The scenery looked as if it had been taken from an adventure movie: dense jungle on the left-hand side of the tracks, and enormous green mountains on the right. In Aguas Calientes, we jumped at the chance to take our first shower since day one. We then had dinner in a small restaurant, where we got to try out a typical Peruvian cocktail, the pisco sour.

During the final evening before climbing to the mysterious Incan city, one question kept growing in our minds: what will it be like to finally face Machu Picchu? Would all our efforts be rewarded? Would the real-world Machu Picchu be as amazing and exhilarating as the one in our minds, or were we climbing a path to disappointment?

Day 5: 2,000 m (6,561 ft) – never-ending stairs to Machu Picchu

To be one of the day’s first visitors, we got up at 3.45am and walked with our headlamps illuminating our path, to the first checkpoint at the bottom of the Incan mountain. When that checkpoint opened at 5am, we began the climb up the endlessly rising staircase to the second checkpoint, watching the ghostly peaks loom in the misty dawn.

After four days of walking through spectacular landscapes with new friends, sharing unforgettable experiences, and enduring extreme physical and psychological challenges, we finally entered Machu Picchu! Our first impressions could be summarized in two words: unbelievable! Breathtaking! It was more beautiful than we could have ever imagined, and all the hardships of the past days were immediately forgotten. Every single step we took and every hour of sleeplessness were worth it just to get closer to this place.

After climbing another 3,000 steps up to Mount Machu Picchu, we finally had an overview of the Incan empire. We spent many hours exploring the ruins and reveling in the culture and history of this mythical place, before finally starting on the way back to Cuzco by train and bus.

You may wonder, why not take the train and bus in both directions to do everything in a single day, with little effort, and arrive at the top in clean clothes, like almost everyone else? The answer is quite simple: you would miss so much of the natural beauty of Peru, and not know the incomparable feeling of having arrived into Machu Picchu with only the strength of your body and your mind’s will.

Make it happen

Are you hoping to explore Machu Picchu and the natural wonders of the Salkantay Trek? Get in touch with our local experts in Peru to start planning your adventure today!