Interview with Olia Hercules, author of Kaukasis The Cookbook

There’s lots to be said for the Caucasus region – stunning mountain scenery, incredible culture but most importantly, fantastic food! This dramatic and picturesque region straddles Western Asia and Eastern Europe, and is home to the tourist-friendly countries of Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan. Not only is it one of the most historically and culturally diverse regions in the world, but it also offers unsurpassed natural beauty, being home to the Greater Caucasus mountains which serve as a natural divide between Europe and Asia. We sat down with Olia Hercules, food writer and chef, who in Kaukasis The Cookbook has gathered some of her favorite recipes from an epic journey through the countries within its borders. Our interview with Olia Hercules uncovers her inspiration, travels and secret recipes, bringing you a unique taste of the Caucasus.

Olia Hercules interview: diving into Caucasus cuisine

Could you tell us a little bit about your cookbook? What made you want to highlight one of the world’s lesser-known cuisines?

I have always been fascinated by it, since we traveled through the Caucasus to see my Armenian-Ukrainian family in Baku in 1986. It is such a fascinating area, sandwiched between Turkey and Iran – both considered to be home to some of the best cuisines in the world, they both influenced the food of neighboring Caucasus. These influences, coupled with idiosyncratic regional flavors and cooking techniques, make the dishes of Georgia, Azerbaijan, Armenia and other smaller areas of the region some of the most unique and delicious in the world.

Prior to writing the book, you traveled across the region on a research trip. What were the highlights of your journey? Any unforgettable experiences along the way?

There are too many. Traveling throughout is such a beautiful and intense experience. Everything, from the landscapes to the people to the flavors, is overwhelmingly beautiful. I always feel like I have to go home and stare at a blank wall for a while, feeling overstimulated.

One of the most memorable moments was waking up in the mountains of Svaneti, having a mug of home-made yoghurt for breakfast with a local salt flavored with garlic and wild herbs, going outside and feeling my jaw drop. I was surrounded by stunning views – Mount Ushba, wild mineral springs, a 14th-century chapel, and the natural world waking up around me. All of this from my host’s guest house. But if you don’t make it there, just walking through the streets of Tbilisi (Georgia’s capital) is an experience in itself – it is a stunning city with an incredible food scene.

Kaukasis is full of countless intriguing and colorful recipes. Which ones are your favorites?

I think the beetroot marinated in spicy, garlicky plum sauce is one of the simplest but most delicious I have ever tried. I have had so many beetroot-haters convert into beetroot-lovers because of this dish.

Another is khinkali – Georgian dumplings filled with chili-spiced beef and pork. And the saffron pilau from Azerbaijan called shakh plov – it is a properly regal dish, but very easy to make – a real dinner party show-stopper.

Do you think that chefs and consumers around the world could learn a lot from the ‘zero waste’ philosophy of the Caucasus?

I think we already are heading that way, and it used to be like this here too, we have just forgotten; got too comfortable. But it is definitely very inspiring to go there and see why it is done – it is not just a fad or fashion. It is and should be a necessity for us too. It should be a natural way of life.

What would be your recommendations for someone traveling in the Caucasus region? Any Georgian foodie highlights they really shouldn’t miss?

If you are in Tbilisi, eat and drink at Vino Underground, Azarphesha, and Barbarestan. Do not miss out on a trip to the Deserter’s Market in Tbilisi (and seek out the basement where they sell mountains of fermented vegetables). If you travel elsewhere in Georgia, stay at people’s guest houses and try home-cooked food – it is out of this world.

If you rent a car and drive down the Military Road from Tbilisi – westwards look out for mushroom sellers. They forage and then go to the edge of the forest by the main road and sell them – they’re the most incredible mushrooms I have ever tried. Finally, if you go to Azerbaijan – I recommend you make it to Lankaran, by the Iranian border – it was an amazing experience.

And, we’ve got to ask, what would be your dream travel destinations around the world?

I am dying to go to Moldova (west border of Ukraine) – it is a hidden gem of Eastern Europe. I would also love to discover the Baltics and Central Asia. I still have not been to Japan, but I am waiting for my son to grow up a little so we can go together. And I would love to take a trip from San Francisco to Alaska one day – that would be just beyond ace.

Caucasus region travel guide

When to go to the Caucasus

Because the region is geographically diverse and offers everything from mountain trekking to cultural tours, it really depends on the reason for your visit. Spring (April to June) and fall (September to November) are your best bet for all activities, as the weather is mild and the landscape carpeted in color.

Summer (July to September) is best suited to outdoor lovers who want to summit the peaks or relax at the seaside. Winter is the season of skiing and snow-capped mountains, with ski resorts like Gudauri in Georgia and Tsaghkadzor in Armenia drawing winter sports enthusiasts.

Cultural and activity highlights

Culturally, there are three UNESCO World Heritage Sites within the region. The ancient city of Mtskheta in Georgia is a mosaic of looming cathedrals and dramatic monasteries, one of which is the significant Jvari Monastery. Mtskheta is the oldest city in Georgia and was inhabited before 1000 BC – a must-visit place for history buffs! If archaeology and anthropology fascinate you, don’t skip a trip to Azerbaijan’s Gobustan Rock Art Cultural Landscape to see petroglyphs dating back to the Stone Age.

If it’s the history of wine that piques your interest, the ancient wine-making traditions of Georgia (the birthplace of wine) may be of interest to you. The qvevri wine-making tradition dates back to over 8,000 years ago! During harvest season, there are always big celebrations in Kakheti, the origin of wine.

Read more: Discover why Georgia is the birthplace of wine

Outdoor pursuits in the Caucasus

Beyond their rich culture and history, the Caucasus countries offer diverse outdoor and adventure activities. Georgia’s Svaneti region attracts hikers with its dramatic peaks and the challenge of Gergeti Glacier, while alpine villages appeal to skiing enthusiasts.

Is spotting wildlife more your thing? Further afield in Azerbaijan is the revered Shirvan National Park, an absolute must for wildlife enthusiasts who’ll find great pleasure in spotting flamingos and general wildlife dotted across desert landscapes. Armenia also shines as a wildlife destination, particularly the Khosrov Forest State Reserve.

Unmissable culinary delights of the Caucasus

The Caucasus countries may not have the reputation of being foodie destinations, but it so happens that Georgia is fast becoming the next top food and wine region. We suggest trying khachapuri, a mouthwatering cheese-filled bread usually topped with egg or butter.

Of course, the famous ‘Georgian candy’ is sure to delight any sweet tooth. Strings of walnuts or hazelnuts are coated in thickened grape juice, which delivers a delectable sticky snack. Meanwhile, in both Armenia and Azerbaijan, stuffed vine leaves filled with minced meat and herbs (dolma) are a beloved staple. In fact, Armenia even hosts a festival celebrating the many variations of this appetizing dish.

Make it happen

If our interview with Olia Hercules has inspired you to travel to the Caucasus for a foodie vacation, speak to our local experts in Georgia and Armenia, who will be happy to help you plan your perfect tailor-made trip.

Book credit

Kaukasis The Cookbook: The culinary journey through Georgia, Azerbaijan & beyond by Olia Hercules is published by Mitchell Beazley